NEW YORK MAGAZINE

Ask Gael

Has Naples become Manhattan’s new Tuscany?

By Gael Greene

The city at Italy’s ankle feels fresh again after decades of restoration.
Perhaps that explains a growing pride of spots around town flaunting its cooking.
Chef Vito Gnazzo lights up tiny Il Gattopardo and its ivy-draped garden
with rustic classics from Naples and its surround – cabbage-wrapped meatballs, homey artichoke parmigiana
with smoked mozzarella, and his Neapolitan meatloaf encircling hard-boiled egg with mashed potatoes.
An expat pal from Naples is shocked to find Gnazzo’s braised baby escarole filled with minced black olive,
anchovy, and pine nuts “better even than my mom’s.”
Indeed, Vito’s wife, Concetta, forms the tiny cavatelli herself (using her pinky).
Paccheri is local dialec for wide brands of artisanal pasta, served here in an oniony meat sauce
Naples calls Genovese (alas, the meats too though).
Locals who know this Sette MoMA seedling come by Wednesdays for suckling pig with delicious broccoli rabe.
The icotta and wheat torta called pastiera is a rare find,
but lemon sorbetto seems a saner choice after this feast.
(33 west 54th Street; 212-246-0412.)

IL GATTOPARDO Restaurant & Catering

33 West 54th Street / New York New York 10019 / Tel 212 246 0412 / Fax 212 246 3332

Reservations are recomended, please contact us at 212 246 0412

Lunch / Mon - Sun, 12 noon to 3 pm /// Dinner / Mon - Sat, 5 pm to 11:30 pm /// Sunday Dinner / 5 pm to 10 pm