NEW YORK RESIDENT

SPOT OF BRILLIANCE

In the Shadow of the Renovated MoMA, Il Gattopardo Redefines Its Kitchen Image

By Sheldon Landwehr

33 West 54th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues
(212) 246 0412
Dinner Entrées: $18 to $34

**1/2 (out of four *)


            Il Gattopardo has improved steadily since opening in September 2001.
After some inconsistencies, the kitchen finally has gotten its act together.
            The restaurant’s modern-minimalist interior accommodating 64 guests hasn’t changed much.
Pristine white and natural-brick walls and dark-wood floors framed roomy white-clothed tables with glowing votive candles,
bent-cane chairs and large, title mirrors. In the center of the dining room stands a conspicuous spray of greenery,
a bar that is usually busy and an inviting 20-seat enclosed rear garden.
            Generally, Il Gattopardo - meaning “The Leopard” in Italian –
draws crowds of movers and shakers late in the evening, and when the place fills, it tends to become noisy.
           

The restaurant continues to offer signature specialties such as Neapolitan meatloaf, packed with
imported ham, egg and cheese, simmered in garlicky tomato sauce; baby-artichoke parmigiana with smoked mozzarella;
traditional Neapolitan cheesecake; and fresh baskets of rolls, including a crusty raisin variety.
            An exclusive appetizer of lengthy strips of braised escarole is done with praiseworthy black olives, capers and pinenuts.
Try the popular beef and veal meatballs wrapped in zesty cabbage leaves napped in thyme sauce and tended on a raft of crispy salad.
And speaking of salad, adept chef Vito Gnazzo’s chopped version is remarkable.
Another favorite, when available, is smoked mozzarella drizzled with a spicy buoyant tomato sauce.
           

The pastas, which have greatly improved, are cooked al dente.
Linguini tossed with veal ragout and porcini mushrooms or the fresh, made-to-order vegetable risotto both rouse the appetite.
Spaghetti bathed in three sauces (beef, veal and pork) with porcini mushrooms is likewise worth ordering, if available.
            Skillful handling and high-quality raw ingredients assure the excellence of seafood and meat.
Fish-and-shellfish stew, brimming with shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and whitefish in an airy tomato broth
with floating garlic croutons, couldn’t taste better. The agilely grilled swordfish special is almost too much of a good thing:
The thinly sliced fish is moist, flaky, aromatic and sensibly seasoned.
            For a premium feast, bite into the herb-crusted rack of lamb.
The thickly cut, fork tender, juicy chops are served with potato croquettes and sautéed spinach under a weightless fruit-mustard sauce. There are rotating specials; suckling pig aficionados should book Wednesdays.
            The entire table can share side dishes, such as broccoli rabe sautéed with crushed red peppers,
roasted potatoes and spinach sautéed in olive oil and garlic.
           

Desserts include refreshing seasonal fruit platters, as well as warm, soft chocolate cake a la mode,
lip-puckering lemon and limoncello semifreddo, homemade ice creams and sorbets.
All equal the cuisine in taste, texture and goodness.
            The service is exceptional.
The wine list features more than 120 labels, specializing in southern Italy.
And prices are not bad for such a fancy restaurant.
Il Gattopardo is understandably popular.


Sheldon Landwehr is the senior dining critic of New York Resident. 

IL GATTOPARDO Restaurant & Catering

33 West 54th Street / New York New York 10019 / Tel 212 246 0412 / Fax 212 246 3332

Reservations are recomended, please contact us at 212 246 0412

Lunch / Mon - Sun, 12 noon to 3 pm /// Dinner / Mon - Sat, 5 pm to 11:30 pm /// Sunday Dinner / 5 pm to 10 pm