WINE SKINNY
For the Inside Skinny on Wine!
June / July, 2006
Restaurant Review: IL GATTOPARDO, New York, NY
The next time you're in midtown Manhattan and a craving for authentic, unpretentious Italian food hits (the kind of craving inspired by movies like Big Night), look no farther than the delicious offerings at Il Gattopardo.
The sliver of a dining room, with white table cloths and an ivy-draped garden, is tucked into the ground floor of a townhouse. Salerno-born chef Vito Gnazzo serves Neapolitan and other southern Italian specialties that can only be described as comfort food - but with an upscale twist that makes them seem equal parts contemporary and home-cooking familiar.
The cabbage-wrapped meatballs are well loved and rightly so. Ethereally light, juicy and rich, they are a mix of veal and beef and wrapped in a translucent sheet of cabbage. Gnazzo serves them as a starter over greens and with an aromatic thyme-white-wine sauce. No visit to Il Gattopardo should be without at least one order.(They come three to an order, perfect for two people who don't mind a minor squabble over last one!)
The eggplant and buffalo ricotta cakes are a standout vegetarian starter, as was the ravioli with wild mushrooms and provola cheese in a fresh tomato sauce.
For the main course, it's hard to resist the Neapolitan meat loaf, encasing hard-boiled eggs and served with chive mashed potatoes and spinach. Really lovely and flavorful, especially when paired with one of the Sicilian Nero d'Avola wines from the appealing all-Italian wine list.
Or go a bit lighter with any of the fish dishes, which really seem to shine here. We particularly liked a baked codfish "gratin" dish flecked with black olives, capers and tomatoes.
Service is efficient and courteous, with nary a speck of attitude or over-friendliness in sight. It's the kind of place you want to linger over dessert (yes, even after the meatballs and meatloaf…). Try the lemon tart!
Cuisine: Italian
Price Range: Starters $9-$14 / Main Courses $18-$32
Credit Cards: All major
Reservations: Recommended
Hours: Seven days a week, Lunch and Dinner
IL GATTOPARDO Restaurant & Catering
33 West 54th Street / New York New York 10019 / Tel 212 246 0412 / Fax 212 246 3332
Reservations are recomended, please contact us at 212 246 0412
Lunch / Mon - Sun, 12 noon to 3 pm /// Dinner / Mon - Sat, 5 pm to 11:30 pm /// Sunday Dinner / 5 pm to 10 pm